Reisen in Georgien und darüber hinaus im Südkaukasus: Eintauchen in das Abenteuer, die Geschichte und die Kultur des faszinierenden Reiselandes Sakartwelo, Georgien mit Menschen, die das Land leben, lieben und schätzen.

31.07.2005

A Khevsur from Juta- Lagaza Arabuli

One of the most respected persons in Khevsureti is Lagaza Arabuli from Juta. He is 73 years old now and one of my best friends.


The Chaukhi-Massiv of 3842m is just behind Juta, on the other side is the village Roshka.


14.07.2005

Caucasus Solitude

That's why I am here



Hans Heiner Buhr 2004

13.07.2005

Tusheti- Mountainworld August 2005 Georgia Greater Caucasus

Last Chance for Tusheti Mountain Journey 13.08.- 26.08. 2005 the best time to visit Georgias Balcony, the wonderful Tusheti, a Journey you'll never forget



Impressions from Tusheti here

Programme in short

13.08. Arrival, Sightseeing Tbilisi

14.08. Transfer to Eastern Georgia, Kakheti (160km) to Village Alwani, Sightseeing Kakheti: Shuamta and Alawerdi

15.08. Transfer with Russian Off-Road Jeeps to Omalo/Tusheti via the Abano-Pass (2950m)

16.08. Trekking and sightseeing around Omalo

17.08. Trekking to Dochu


Near Jvarboseli

18.08. Trekking to Jvarboseli and Tsovata, Overnight Stay in Shepherders Camp

19.08. Trekking around Tsovata

20.08.
Trekking around Tsovata

21.08. Transfer to ancient villages Parsma and Dartlo

22.08. Trekking to Girevi

23.08. Transfer to Diklo and Shenako

24.08. Trekking in the area of Diklo/Shenako

25.08. Transfer back to Kakheti

26.08. Transfer to Tbilisi

Slight changes of this programme may occure at your request/or on weather conditions

Price: 1250,- Euro

Contact: info@kaukasus-reisen.de


At Parsma


Girevi


Puppies



Georgia with our Destinations


11.07.2005

Imam Shamil- The Lion of Dagestan

Shamil is still a Hero in the Mountainous Regions of Georgia, and of course in the whole Northern Caucasus. The title Imam made him the Religious and Common Leader of the Mountain People of Dagestan and Chechnya. He was famous for his courage, honesty and resistance, his devotion to Religion and to his Homeland: Dagestan and Chechnya. The Army of 200.000 Tsarist troops under the command of Prince Bariatinski couldnt defeat him before they took the help of the Georgian Generals Vakhtang and Grigol Orbeliani and their troops including the Mountain experienced Khevsurs and Tushs between others. Shamil got driven to his Mountain fortress Gunib in Dagestan, where he surrendered in front of the superiority. He met later with the Tsar, got exiled to Kaluga, but in 1869 permission to retire to the Holy town Mecca. He died while visiting Medina in 1871. Read further on the heroic Imam Shamil at Wikipedia in English
and in Deutsch
This is a photo of Shamil and his son from 1859 by the Photographer Alexander Ivanitski
found on Photomuseum Georgia.



The famous Georgian Painter Niko Pirosmani (1862-1918) made two impressive paintings on Shamils history, they belong today to the State Museum of Fine Arts of Georgia, Tbilisi and I found those images on the profound website on Pirosmani by Tatiana and Vera Kofyan : The Russian Avant- Garde Gallery


Shamil with a Bodyguard. Oil on oil-cloth, 112x90 cm. The State Museum of Fine Arts of Georgia, Tbilisi


Sheteh Helps Prince Bariatinsky to Apprehend Shamil. Oil on oil-cloth, 113x89 cm. The State Museum of Fine Arts of Georgia, Tbilisi

Sheteh is dressed like a Khevsur, but I am not sure, who he was. More Information kindly appreciated.

17.10. Thanks to an anonymous commenter we know now, that Shete was a Tushetian warrior:

"Shete Guluhaidze was famos tushetian warrior and chieftain. With his mobile group of highlanders he made hundreds of raids into territory of Shamil's imamat... Together with detachments of khevsurian, mtiuletian and pshavian warriors he carried out many military operations considered impossible by commanding staff of Russian Generals. Some of the local stories about Shete Guluhaidze were recorded by famous russian intelligence service agent and spy Zisserman ( "25 years in Caucasus" and " History of K. regiment", and also by Alexander Duma in his " Kaukasus"

Reisebericht vom Chewsuretien der 80er Jahre

Frau Dr. Wandrowski bereiste zusammen mit Ihrem Mann Andrej Inguschetien im Nordkaukasus und Chewsuretien in Georgien wiederholt in den 80er Jahren. Für mich gibt es in diesem Erfahrungsschatz unheimlich viele neue interessante Details und Fotos. Der Reisebericht"Was mich in den 80-ger Jahren nach Georgien und Chewsuretien führte" ist ein PDF mit 170 kb Link:
http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de/reiseberichte/Kaukasus-wandrowski.pdf
Mein herzlicher Dank an Frau Wandrowski für die Zusammenstellung ihrer Erlebnisse.

Go and see the Blog on Georgia

here: http://georgien.blogspot.com

09.07.2005

King David the Builder's fight against 300.000 Seljuk Turks at Didgori

King David the Builder’s army of 40,000 Georgians, 15,000 Kipchak auxiliaries, 500 Alan mercenaries and 300 French Crusaders in a battle against 300.000 Seljuk Turks at August,12 in 1121. Read about this battle at Wikipedia
Even thrilling is the history of the Alans,the forefathers of the Ossetian today.
Did those French Crusaders later settled in the Region of Khevsureti and influenced the strong use of crosses, chain mail, bucklers and swords ?


Khevsurian warriors, ca. 1910

06.07.2005

Kaukasus im Juni

Ein Reisebericht von Wilhelm Siepe, mit Zwischenfall, aber Glück im Unglück bei Kaukasus-Reisen

An exiting story on Abkhazian-Georgian History

indeed an intricate and rich history, not easy to describe profound and balanced, found on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abkhazia

01.07.2005

Travel with Kaukasus-Reisen

We are a small company, but we bring you to the remote parts of Georgia, where other companies refuse to go: http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de

http://georgien.blogspot.com

The Blog Georgien by Journalist Ralph Hälbig is one of the best Ressources in the Internet on Georgian and Caucasus topics: http://georgien.blogspot.com



Jungfernflug Lufthansa München-Tiflis

Eine interessante Reportage zum Jungfernflug der Lufthansa nach Tiflis und zum derzeitigen Stand der Flugverbindungen nach Georgien von Götz-Martin Rosin auf georgien-news.de

19.06.2005

List of countries wich citizens do not need a Visa for Georgia

until 90 days of stay you will find on the Website of the Embassy of Georgia in Germany in English and in German here: http://www.botschaftvongeorgien.de/data/Visumsbestimmungen.htm
Watch out the annotations for some of the the countries like f.e. Bulgaria, China, Turkey and others.

18.06.2005

To marry your beloved in Georgia, in the Caucasus ?

Just married ? Enjoy an outstanding honeymoon in Georgia !

Marrying in Georgia brings luck and health for a lifetime to you and your beloved, to your future kids ! Sounds funny ? Try it !

Christianity rules in Georgia since 337 AD, the second state after Armenia, wich took Christianity official as States Religion. The ancient Georgian Churches are monuments of Humanity, Tolerance and Resistance over the centuries. Inside a church like Dshvari
(The cross) you feel the power and imagination of a Great History immediatly.
The Georgian Land between the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Ranges is a holy Land: Soaked with wine, soaked with Love, soaked with hospitality, soaked with blood. This sounds maybe
exaggerated, but one feels that at ones by landing on the bumpy airfield in Tbilisi with its wild clouds behind. What kind of people are the Georgians ? First of all hospitable hosts, as every guest is sent by God himself. They are warm, high-spirited, intelligent, strong friends
and strong enemies.

"The Georgians are very warlike and strong people and have numerous knights and warriors... In spite of existing in a totally hostile environment of infidels, they remain fearless. On the contrary - others are afraid of them and do not easily risk to offend them in any way. They are called Georgians, according to the name of the Holy Knight, St. George, whose name they esteem and respect immensely, particularly prior to the battles they are going to join..." (Bernhard von Breidenbach, 15th century German author) Source: Kartuli Idea- The Georgian Idea by Dr. Levan Urushadze

Want something different from what everyboy does ?

Relax in Georgia, get indulged in some of the best Hotels of the world, ride a horse with your bride, be the star on a Georgian table, drink the holy red wine, eat Khachapuri, Salads and Shashlyk, let a horse race going on only for you, enjoy biggest contrasts of cultures and landscapes, go out in lively Tbilisi and see the next day the world beneath you from the top of Mount Kazbegi, where Prometheus had been chained, where the Amazons ruled. Watch a Caucasian bear, buy a silver Georgian cross your Lover, let the sun, the mountains and the clouds of the Caucasus lead your future destiny. Get the real strength for your rich life in front of yours.
Contact Kaukasus-Reisen for individual proposals on the most important journey of your life.




12.06.2005

Ready for Shashlyk

I can't wait for the snowy passes to Khevsureti to be freed soon.




08.06.2005

Holy Chalices of the Khevsurs

Silver Chalices are used at the Atengenoba feasts in Juli for dark holy brewed beer. The beer is made by the Oldest of the Valley, the Khevisberi and his 1 or 2 helpers. Some of the Chalices are so old, that even the Khevisberies can not say its age.



Foto: Anja Bronny 2004, Gudani, Khevsureti, Georgia

06.06.2005

From now on: To Georgia without a Visa

Take a flight to Tbilisi, no Visa required*

As I have been in the countryside, this news is two days too late, but anyway great:
Citizens from the *EU, Switzerland, USA, Canada, Japan and Israel can travel to Georgia without Visa and stay in Georgia *up to 3 months. I am very exited about this revolutionary step and hope on increasing spontanious visitors to this great country what is: Sakartvelo
Come here, and have a Breakfast in the Caucasus.
Armenia, Azerbaidshan where are your follow ups ?

So what else do you need ? A flight to Tbilisi ? Check out here: http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de/fluege-nach-georgien.htm
Somewhere to stay ? Check out Art Pension Murtazi or a Guest Apartment
Journeys ? Check out here: Kaukasus-Reisen
Short trips
Reisetipps (in German)
Any questions ? E-mail me in German, Russian, English or Dutch.



04.06.2005

Ein 4.Juni auf der Georgischen Heerstraße



Regen, Regen, Regen und Zminda Sameba in den Wolken



Chechen Resistance Leader Sadullaev

Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty interviewed the new chechen resistance leader Sadullaev. He condemns the use of violence against civilians. Read the full article at RFL/RL

The monk Giorgi from Vardzia

Yesterday I had a nice conversation with Giorgi from Vardzia monastery in the Southwest of Georgia. He lives in Vardzia together with five other monks. He is a very sympathic man and he gave me his greetings from my friends Megi and Ralph from Berlin, who met him at Vardzia half a year ago. I was very surprized, that he called me by my name Heiner...



Giorgi



View at Vardzia



A fresco

31.05.2005

Khevsurs- Chewsuren

I am impressed that quite some searches from far abroad asking the Khevsurs. Here is a photo from a small Atengenoba ceremony near Shatili in July 2004. The men are praying. The Khevisberi ('Oldest' of the Valley) with the cross on his breast leads the ceremony. Soon he will sacrifice the sheeps cutting the throats, and spilling the blood around the small christian church-temple, outside the right border of this image. The men will take the sheeps home later, where will be prepared various dishes.



Here are some more photos of Khevsurs and Khevsureti and the Atengenoba feast.

30.05.2005

Plov, Shashlyk and Burgers in Uzbekistan

My opinion on Uzbek dishes

A Molotij Shashlyk near Shakhizabrz


Thanks to Nathan for his interesting post on the best Plovmaker from Tashkent, I want to add my own experiences on the field of Uzbek/Tajik kittchen. I definitly missed the plov by Nurshod Asymov's, but I am sure it tastes great. Sure, Plovmaker are very proud on their own talents and it truly needs a lot of talent, wisdom, experience and feeling to make a good plov. Dont think you can do it immediatly good after reading some recipes. The main problem for making a good plov is to get the rice, wich is best from Khorezm, and the oil, what is best if it is from cotton, but sunflower oil might replace. Of course you can hardly get any beef the sort it is in Central Asia or the Caucasus in America or Europe either. Every region in Uzbekistan has its own plov, with quite some differences from other regions. Famous of course is the plov from Tashkent, from Samarkand and from Bukhara. My best plov (what of course is a question of luck and taste) I eat in Fergana, on the main road 2 kilometers before crossing the border into the town on the right hand sight. There I also eat the best salad in my life, compared with dozens of salads I eat in all over Europe and the Caucasus. The second best plov I got in Bukhara, the third best in Samarkand, and in Tashkent, I've been probably at the wrong places. But two things where great in Tashkent: Horse meat and Horse sausages and I eat there often, you wouldn't expect, the best Burgers of my life at Mir, a known warehouse and pizzeria in the centre of Tashkent. Its called simple the "Mir Burger", wich you can get also as a Double. I recommend to order 2-3 pieces.
For Shashlyk I always prefered the so called 'Molotij' 'hacked', like in other countries you call Kebab, or Kabab, but in Uzbekistan its different with lots of onion and was the best until very recently, when I was surprized to eat the now best Kebab I ever eat in the small South Armenian town Vayk (also I eat one of the best trouts there). So the best smashed, or hacked Shashlyk- the Molotij- in Uzbekistan, I think you eat at the Bazaar in Urgut, some 40 km South of Samarkand near the Tajik Border, if you can ignore the dirt on this Bazaar and its kittchen, I always had to flee my wife and eat it secretly ;-)
My former boss in Tashkent (a German) always said that the Uzbek kittchen was one of his main reasons to stay further in Uzbekistan.

The famous "Mir Burger"



Climbing Mount Kasbek July 2005

Summit Mount Kazbek 5033
A special offer to Climbers by Kaukasus-Reisen

Programme

23.07. - 30.07.2005, other dates available through August and September 2005

1.Day Transfer to accomodation (f.e. from the airport), Sightseeing in
Tbilisi

2.Day Transfer via the Georgian Military Road and the Cross Pass 2395 m to villageKazbegi.

3.Day Tour from Kazbegi (1750 m above sea level) to Meteo-Station at apprx. 3700 m.

4.Day Acclimatization around Meteostation

5.Day Summit of Mount Kazbek 5033m, return to Meteostation

6.Day Return to Kazbegi village

7.Day Return to Tbilisi

Included Transfers, Accomodations, Englishspeaking Guide for Mount Kazbek, Halfboard in Tbilisi, Fullboard on the trip.

Price: 749,- USD

Contact Kaukasus-Reisen for further details

Mount Kazbek 5033m



A trip to Ingushetia by Martin Kaul

Martin Kaul in "Die Zeit" on Ingushetia (In German)

This report from Ingushetia is good written and haunting, allthough the headline "Why the Russians will loose the Caucasus" is not really answered and filled with some vague speculations.
I liked the sharp observations on the state of agony of officials and simple citizens of the Northern Caucasus and the ability of the author to balance facts with concernment. The Caucasus, Ingushetia, the kindness of its people and the harshness and absurdity of its daily life seems to make the stranger very fast involved and even sympathizing. I personally hope Martin Kaul will soon come back here again and write more. Those unsolved problems can not get enough publicity. A small mistake: Ingushetia is to the west of Chechnya.

29.05.2005

Cossacks again in the Caucasus ?

Whats the sense
of giving paramilitarian units like the Cossacks, a restoration in the Caucasus in the 21. century ?
Slaughter, hacking, smashing and killing again to the Mountain tribes ? I have to read my favourite Alexandre Dumas again. Here a painting of a cossack from 2001, its title is "Father"



Another brain teaser Caucasus

What is the name of this Georgian River ?

The other photos help you.









27.05.2005

Newsletter "An die Freunde des Kaukasus"

Newsletter Kaukasus-Reisen März und April 2005

Der Newsletter "An die Freunde des Kaukasus" erscheint etwa alle sechs Wochen. Neben Neuigkeiten praktischer Art, wie Visa, Flüge und politischen Highlights gibt es Links zu Neuscheinungen auf dem Buchmarkt, zum Internet und zur Kunst, alles konzentriert auf den Kaukasus. Leider sind Aserbaidschan und Armenien bislang noch nicht so gut repräsentiert, ebenso wenig der hoch interessante Nordkaukasus. Den Newsletter kann man hier bestellen:
http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de/newsletter.htm
die Ausgaben vom März und April 2005 können Sie hier lesen:
http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de/newsletter-maerz2005.htm
http://www.kaukasus-reisen.de/newsletter-april2005-2.htm


Tino in Schiraki 2005

25.05.2005

Chechnya Weekly Jamestown Foundation

To keep up with the newest developments in Chechnya I regulary get the Newsletter Chechnya Weekly by the Jamestown Foundation. News often have profound analyses, viewpoints are balanced and seem to be quite objective. It covers not only Chechnya, but the whole region Caucasus, Middle East and Central Asia. Very useful is also the Eurasia Daily Monitor


Aufklärer-Scouts, Hans Heiner Buhr 2001

The Red Book of the Peoples of the Russian Empire

A great book and website

I found this interesting website about a book by Ants Viires, saving information about the smallest nations of the former Sovietunion, including some Nations from the Caucasus Region like the Abazians, the Akhvakhs, the Georgian Jews, the Nogays and others. The best source I found about those small but great nations.